Viterbo

To walk in the town centre of Viterbo is like going back in time, to the dark times in the Middle Ages, and this because the city took shape in that time, when it was fought over by Pope and empire. But the story is much longer; it starts with Etruscans and goes on with Langobards, Franks, Federico Barbarossa. Among sieges, strife and plots, the city grew to become that jewel of architecture that even now fascinates scholars and travellers from everywhere in the world.
It's enough to stroll in the medieval San Pellegrino area, incredibly unspoilt, with lively streets and lanes, art shops and antiquaries. Towers and profferli are another peculiarity of the old city. Everybody knows what towers are, but profferli are typical of Viterbo architecture. They are outside staircases leading to a balcony onto which the main door of the house opens. They are very peculiar and often very elegant.  
The heart of San Pellegrino is Piazza San Lorenzo, with the Cathedral and the Popes' Palace, in which, in 1271, the cardinals elected pope Gregory X. It took them 33 months, and the population not only cut off their supplies but unroofed the palace, so that exposure to bad weather made them reach a decision. An old saying defined Viterbo "a city of beautiful women and beautiful fountains", and that's why a narrow lane, still existing, is called Vicolo Baciadonne (Kissthewomen Lane): it's impossible to pass without at least brushing against each other.
As for the fountains, there are about 90, in streets, squares, yards, walls and gardens, and all working, as Viterbo is lucky enough as to have over 20 springs. They were all built between the XIIth century and the Renaissance. The fountains were tightly linked with the churches they belonged to: there was a very strict law about use and maintenance.